Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Europe Trip: Day 47, July 6th

Another glorious wake up call complimentary of the Greek government. Trucks, machinery, and maybe even a jackhammer clattered right next to John's window, promising for a fun week or however long it takes to finish their project.

We got out a bit earlier this day, and I was planning on checking out some of the touristy things that I hadn't been able to go into the day before...but reality hit when I found out that it was Monday, and in Europe that means every museum is closed. So I only have photos of the outside of the Rotunda and the White Tower, which makes me feel like all I did was laze about the 3 days in Thessaloniki -- perhaps mostly the truth. Oh well, you can't see everything the first time.

After walking around the city by myself for a while, I called up John and he said he was just about done meeting with this 90 year old man. To give some back story, John is trying to make a website (his personal project) about where he comes from, which is a separate Greek state that lived along the Black Sea. I forget what he name of the country/group was, but they had been forced out by Ataturk in his ethnic purge during the founding of modern day Turkey. This old man actually lived there before that, and was helping John translate a play he had written in the old language.

Anyway, we met up and had a gyros (except his was without meat since he is vegetarian), and then headed back to his place. We played a game of chess, which was quite double edged. I had better development and position, but he had more material and in order to keep my attack going I had to sacrifice even more material, but it paid off with a beautiful Knight checkmate. After that I finished packing up, looked up some information on the places to see in Istanbul, and we were out the door at 6:30pm. I took two buses to reach the train station and got there 30 minutes early, enough to grab a burger at Goody's and pick up a couple bakery goods to keep me going until Istanbul.

Right now I am on the train, I paid 94 euros for the 12 hour trip, but I got my own room/compartment (with a bed). It seems quite nice. John was telling me that there are two different trains, one is Greek and one is Turkish. The Greek one sucks, and the Turkish one is good. Since there is the Turkish symbol (crescent moon and star) on the window and it seems nice, I am guessing this is the Turkish one. I guess I got lucky. It left at 7:40pm and will arrive at around 8am in the morning. I am told that around the border they come and ask for my passport and I have to pay $20 for the visa. My next CS host, Sadi, said he could pick me up at the train station and drop me off at his place. So that should be great!

Europe Trip: Day 46, July 5th

We woke up to the sound of roadwork right outside John's house at 7am. I managed to keep sleeping until 9-10am, though. Leonard had to leave to take the train to Athens, so he left between 10am and 11am.

I wasn't feeling like doing much, so to be honest I was lazy most of that day. Now a few days after, I can't really remember what I did. Oh, that's right, John showed me the old Byzantine wall that is very close to his house, and to an overlook of the city. I took a few pictures.

Besides that we ate and talked about Greek culture, history, and modern politics. Also some about John's life and his time living in London, Germany, and the Greek island of Santorini. He is a very interesting guy who speaks very good English and speaks very fast.

Europe Trip: Day 45, July 4th

In the morning I was surprisingly not tired at all. I think for once I was caught up on all my sleep and had gotten some decent rest. After getting ready, George and the guy from Hong Kong left at the same time as me, George going to work and the guy from Hong Kong taking the bus with me to the metro station.

I didn't have any issues getting on the train and the train ride was surprisingly uneventful. I had heard horror stories about how bad the train system was in Greece and that I was crazy to take the cheap train to Thessaloniki...but people must just like to complain, it wasn't any worse than the trains in Italy.

In Thessaloniki my host, John, and another CouchSurfer, Leonard, met me at the train station. We took a taxi back to John's house, and I dropped off all of my stuff. We talked for a while, and then Leonard offered to show me around the city a bit since he had been there for 3 full days and knew it quite well. We walked around for a while, ate a gyros, and then walked back to John's place.

We took it easy back there and I played two chess games against Leonard. The first game I crushed him, but the second game he came back and beat me. Sadly we didn't get to play a tie breaker before he left the next morning.

At 9pm or so we all headed out for dinner and had a plethora of food. John is vegetarian, so most of it didn't have any meat, but I had a side of souvlaki (meat on a stick). We ate and talked until midnight, and then took a taxi back up the hill to John's place.

Europe Trip: Day 44, July 3rd

George slept in again, and I went on the computer for a little while. He dropped me off at the metro station, since he had a few things to do, and then agreed to meet me around 6pm that evening.

First I took the metro to the main train station, Larissa station, and bought my train ticket to Thessaloniki for the next day. Then I headed to the Acropolis and checked out the new museum. The Acropolis Museum had just opened the previous week and I had heard about it from Francesca and people had told me that it is supposed to be one of the best in the world. For the first 6 months (until the end of the year) it only costs 1 euro to enter! So I went in, and it was very cool. The entire thing was built over an archeological site, so they have some parts of the floor as glass you can see through to the ruins below. Then there are sections for each different area of the Acropolis, most notably the top floor is dedicated to the Parthenon. Everything was very professional, clean, and had some modern touches. For sure worth a visit.

Next I asked random people on the street how to get to the Plaka, a very famous district in Athens. My favorite was asking a Greek garbage man who was extremely friendly and helpful and had quite decent English -- you never know until you ask! When I finally found it, you notice that the style of the buildings is a bit different, and the streets are much more narrow, too narrow for cars, which is a gift from God in Athens. There are lots of cafes and a couple streets selling a lot of different things. I walked around for a while and stopped to get a drink, and a rest in the shade. I don't think Nordic people are meant to take the Meditteranean sun.

When I tried to leave the Plaka, I got really, really lost. After 30-45 minutes I finally found a street that I recognized on my little map and noticed that it could get me near Syndagma Square. So I followed it and found a pay phone, using my Greek phone card to call George. Unfortunately he didn't pick up, and as I was trying to call the clouds came out and it began to POUR. It was raining cats and dogs, and people were scrambling for cover. It rained for about 30 minutes, enough to create a couple rivers, which was fun to try and cross the street -- you got to test your leaping abilities :)

After the rain stopped I tried calling George again and he picked up, we agreed to meet up in about an hour. I went to the metro station closest to his house, and he and his girlfriend picked me up. The rain and clouds had left, leaving us only with the lovely humidity.

George had promised to drive me to the top of Lycabettus Hill, the highest hill in Athens and with what he told me was the best view in all of Athens. You drive up to a lookout area, and then can climb up some stairs to reach the very top, where there is a cafe and a church. We entered the church (St. George), but not the cafe. The view was very good and it was neat to see where everywhere I had been was with a perspective of the whole city.

Then we went to the same cafe from the day before to wait for the other CouchSurfer to call us about meeting up, but he never called. He had said he might not if he was still busy at work for the night. So when it got dark, I took a few pictures of the Acropolis all lit up, and then we drove back to George's neighborhood. We picked up some gyros and souvlaki again and brought it back to his house, where we ate.

I went to bed somewhat early, since I had to get up at 6:30am to get ready and leave for the train station. Another Couchsurfer was coming, last minute, and took a taxi to get to George's at night, some guy from Hong Kong. So I woke up enough to see him arrive, but didn't talk to him that night.

Europe Trip: Day 43, July 2nd

George sleeps in a coma-like state. At 7am his alarm went off that is for when he works, so he kept sleeping with it on. The first alarm is like a siren, and then the second one is the radio with a bunch of static -- both excessively loud. I had to go into his room and shut it off. After that I couldn't go back to sleep, so I just stayed up, hoping he would get up soon. It got to be about 10am and he still hadn't woke up, so I tried to wake up him, but even speaking with a normal room speaking voice he slept right through it. So, thinking he wouldn't mind I just went on his computer for a good hour and a half. Finally sometime around 11:30-noon he woke up.

We picked something up at the bakery and ate a brunch before picking up his girlfriend. They showed me a couple areas like the Academy and University area, and then the area where the students go and have a coffee (Thissio - Monastiraki). At first I was confused because it was quite expensive, like 6-7 euros ($8-10) for a beer. Later it was explained to me that in Greece, education is free, and then their parents give them money for spending, etc. So students in Greece live the good life. From what I heard it is pretty messed up. Some of them drag it out for as long as 10 years, draining their parents who are definitely not rich.

We walked around for a bit, seeing the area around Syndagma square including the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Psiri neighborhood, and then headed back to his place. His girlfriend had to look after her 90+ year old grandfather for a couple hours. So I took a nap. Then the plan was to meet up with some other couchsurfers, but they ended up being busy. So we just ordered some gyros/souvlaki and ate at his place. And then I just went to sleep.

Europe Trip: Day 42, July 1st

A guy from Aphrodite Hostel met us at the bus, since they are affiliated with the Pink Palace. He led us back to the hostel and said that we could use free internet, could leave our luggage there for the day, and some other good stuff. The first thing I did was called George to tell him I didn't need to meet up with him until he finished with work. We agreed to meet at a main Square around 7pm. I said I would call again at 6:30pm to double check on the plan. I went and bought breakfast and got on the internet, replying to emails from the Fam.

I put my contacts on and brushed my teeth, put some stuff in my daypack, and headed out into Athens. For me I was actually quite prepared this time. I had a small map of the city with some of the main streets and attractions and the day before I had looked up the things I wanted to see in the city. Most of the other places I had gone to I came completely unprepared and figured it out later.

The metro wasn't too hard to find and I took that straigh to the bottom of the Acropolis. Lucky enough the ticket to all the sites including the Acropolis was only 6 euros for me due to the student discount, for everyone else it was 12 euros.

As you walk up the hill you see different archeaological projects from temples to theaters, and the whole time the main Acropolis looms up above you. It is easy to see why the Ancient Greeks used it as a place of refuge in times of war. No army was going to scale that cliff, and the route up seemed quite easily defensible.

Even though it was only 10-11am it was already hot on the Acropolis. With no shade the sun just beats down on you, and you sweat. And it is crowded with the mass of tourists. And it is easy to see why so many make the trek up to the top of the Acropolis. The sheer magnitude of creating the Parthenon and many of the other buildings up there is unbelievable. I read that the Parthenon is like the biggest jugsaw puzzle in the world. At first it looks like it wouldn't be so hard to put back together, just put the columns back up like any other temple. But each piece of the Parthenon is unique and fits together in a unique way. So a column in the front vs a column in the middle vs a column in the back are all different, and none of their parts are interchangeable. I don't envy the jobs of the archeaologists doing that...okay maybe a little.

I worked my way around the Acropolis and exited towards the other side, and as you walk down you run into the Ancient Agora, the marketplace of Ancient Greece. Most of it is just rubble, but some of it you can picture. An 11th century Byzantine church is also in there, and a nicely preserved Greek temple.

When I finished with that area, I found the exit and headed to the left. After about half a kilometer you reach Kerameikos, the old cemetery of Athens. They have found remains and artifacts dating back to Pre-historic times, as well as from every period of Athens through Roman times. Even though it was a different site, it was covered under my Acropolis ticket, so I didn't even have to pay.

I saw a big church from there, so I tried to reach it, but it ended up being closed. So I walked down a main street and when I cut over I ended up in what I believe is Athen's version of China town. Since I was looking for Greek food to eat, I cut back over to the main street and after a while ran into a place selling pita gyros and other Greek food. So I ate there, it was pretty good, but nothing special.

When I walked outside I realized I had reached Omnia Square, which was the end of the street. I went into the metro and headed over to Syntagma Square, and went inside the National Gardens. After wandering around for a bit I found a place where some people were laying down in the grass, and decided to do likewise. I napped for 2-3 hours to kill some time. Then I headed back and after about half an hour of searching managed to find a pay phone to call George.

George told me that he could meet me at certain metro station which was about 10 minutes from his house, so I headed over there. After waiting for 15 minutes I decided to call him, and he said he hadn't left yet but would be there in 10 minutes. So I waited some more and after 20-30 minutes he drove up -- I guess the Greeks have a similar sense of timeliness as the Italians.

Despite that he was very nice and we drove back to his place, where he let me use his laptop to check my email while he took a shower, and then we headed out to pick up my backpack from the hostel and to have a coffee or drink at the cafe he works at. I had a frappe with ice cream, which was very good. We talked about various things, mostly about sports.

At 10-10:30pm we decided to head back since he was very tired from work, and I was tired from the bad sleep the night before and the long day of walking around Athens. I took a shower when we got back and got ready for bed. I tried to see if I could leech some wireless internet off of a neighbor, but all of them had WEP or WPA keys. So I headed to bed at around 11pm.

Europe Trip: Day 41, June 30th

When the wake up call came, I was in my silk sleeping bag liner and had to struggle out of that. Then I realized I had been laying on my arms for a while, and so they had fallen asleep. So it was comically hard to answer the phone. I felt bad since the guy who had checked in the previous day got woken up -- I hadn't heard him come back in the night before.

I got ready, packed up my stuff, and went to check out. Then after doing some computer stuff like replying to emails I headed down to eat breakfast.

My plan for the day was to go into Corfu Town and see the Venetian fortress and the Byzantine churches, plus anything else I stumbled upon. When I went to check the times for the bus I found out I had just missed the 10am bus and the next one wasn't until 1:45pm. So I went down to the beach with Hector, which was his plan for the day.

At 12:30pm I went and ate a plate of souvlaki (pita bread, chicken on a stick/kebab thing, a few fries, and a small salad. It was very good for only 4 euros. Then I headed back up, did a couple small things, and headed down to the bus stop. On the walk down I met a guy named Alec who was from California. We talked and ended up sticking together in Corfu Town, having some similar interests and wanting to return at the same time. He had been there a little bit before and I had a map, so it worked out quite well.

We first tried to find a couple of the museums, but we never could figure out where the Archeaological or Byzantine museums were, and a couple people told us it was closed. So we just got a drink and then headed to the Venetian fortress. By the time we had walked all around in there and I had taken some pictures it was almost 5pm and we had to be back at the bus station by 5:30pm! We hurried down, and Alec ended up paying for a taxi to get us there in time (5 euros). Since I had bought him a drink earlier we called it even.

Back at the Pink Palace I went through and looked up a bunch of information on Athens. I had a small map that showed most of downtown Athens (not all the side streets, but quite a few of the streets) and I marked it a bit with the places I wanted to see. I wrote everything else in my little notebook, which also had the information on where to meet my host in Athens the next morning.

Then I went and ate, adding Alec to our little group. Hector, Alec, and I sat with three Portuguese people, a guy and two girls. I was surprised at how good their English was since I had heard somewhere that Portugal didn't have as many English speakers. It turns out that their university had been turned into an English university, where all the classes were taught in English. So they spoke almost flawlessly and with very little accent.

After we finished eating, I headed up to the luggage area, where I grabbed my backpack and sat down to wait. The bus was supposed to leave at 10pm, but didn't leave until at least half an hour later.

I slept a couple hours on the ferry, since there were couches we could lay down on. But the bus was extremely hard to get any sleep. I dozed a bit on and off, but only got some decent sleep when I experimented with sleeping positions that were more or less sleeping flat. We arrived in Athens by 6:30-7am, and the driver dropped us off at about 7:30am.